Berry Picking and Akutaq

On Friday, we piled all twelve students enrolled at Pilot Point School into a truck and drove out to a section of open land near the airport.  The drive took mere minutes, but from the looks on the faces of the students, this was a grand adventure.  Upon pulling up at our destination, the students threw themselves out of the truck and took off into the tundra. Coats thrown to the side and berry-picking bags streaming behind them as they ran.

Later that night we would host a community potluck at the school, and we'd decided to pick berries and make akutaq (pronounced like uh-goo-duck) as a treat to share with the community. This meant we needed a LOT of berries. Fortunately, collecting the berries was easy work with twelve eager students to help expedite the process.  In barely an hour we had already collected multiple gallon bags of blackberries. 

After collecting the berries, we piled back into the truck and headed back to school. The students then helped us wash and sort berries and make the akutaq. The students could barely contain their excitement over the akutaq, which to them is much like eating cake or brownies would be for a student in the lower 48. I think more berries were eaten than actually made it into the dessert though, as proven by how many purple-stained mouths, teeth, and tongues there were among the students.

Cody using one of the "claws" to pick berries more quickly. 

One of our classroom aides assisted in teaching us (the newbie teachers - not the students) how to make the akutaq.  It involved crisco, berries, sugar, and oil.  In some places, other things like fish and/or animal fat can be added to the dish too.  We stuck with just berries though, and ended up with a very pretty dish that the students were proud of creating. 

At potluck, we had our two oldest students stand up and present about our day of berry picking, washing and sorting berries, and cooking. After, we all dug into the tasty food.  We had spaghetti, pasta salad, sliced ham, chips and dip (contributed by me!), fresh veggies, and a few other dishes and desserts. As always, it was fun to watch the students interacting with their families and friends in a less structured setting, and it was nice to chitchat with community members.  Mostly though, I was proud of the students and their ability to teach us, the teachers, about this part of their lifestyle.

Your turn...What are some of your favorite things to cook or bake with children?

Currently listening to...Son's Gonna Rise - Citizen Cope

Berry Picking on the Tundra

Living in Alaska often feels like one long string of adventures, mishmashed together with common, everyday moments.  It's always been one of my favorite things about life in Alaska. I absolutely love that my normal classroom routine in Juneau involved learning Tlingit language, or that walking the dogs meant carrying bear spray.  It's these little adventures that make living in Alaska such an experience.

One such experience that I had recently was berry picking.  Last Saturday, Melissa (the other teacher) and myself went out picking with a local woman, Sue.  Sue drove us down a bumpy, two-track that led out to the summer fishing camp (all the houses at camp were boarded up for the season). From there, we went on a hunt for berries and tundra plants.  As usual, I was amazed at the beauty and openness of the tundra landscape of my new home.

For my part, I've long been a berry picker, and I grew up in an agricultural hotspot. There's something just so different about berry picking here in the Alaskan Bush though.  It's sharply contrasting to the U-Pick farms in Michigan, or even to the groomed trails with their abundant berries in the mountains outside of Juneau.

Here, in Pilot Point, there are no berry bushes.  The berries grow in thick little clusters, scattered across the tundra.  This means that all berry picking is done in a sitting or squatting position.  Blueberries are much smaller than those in the lower 48 and SE Alaska.  They taste quite similar though and require handpicking and much care.  Comparatively, blackberries and cranberries are quite hardy and can be picked with a "picker."  These pickers are magical, and allowed me to collect a ridiculous amount of blackberries.  I did collect a few cranberries too, but mostly I am saving my picking of those until after the first frost (they are supposed to be much better after that).

The tundra itself makes berry picking in Pilot Point unique too.  If you've never been on the tundra, imagine it as a plush mattress or trampoline. The ground is so squishy that you sink several inches with every step.  It also holds an incredible amount of moisture, which will quickly soak the knees of your pants as you kneel to pick berries.  I learned my lesson about the wetness of the tundra quickly after kneeling to handpick a few blueberries.

After only a couple of hours I had over 1/2 gallon of berries to show for my hard work.  I was hot, sweaty, and feeling incredibly happy and content.  This feeling of happiness was only added to by the sheer vastness of the tundra, the great company of my new friends, and the delicious berries that I took home to pack away for winter.

Your turn...What are some of your favorite everyday adventures? 
Currently listening to...Alaska - Maggie Rogers

Springtime Hiking at Little Sand Bay

Last week, the weather turned warm for a few days and all of the snow melted.  It was the perfect little bit of relief from the long winter. The warm weather and sunny, blue skies were the perfect ingredients in my recipe for a little springtime hiking.  Accessing some of the trails on the island can be tricky in the winter because we have many seasonal-only roads.  Now that the snow is melted the island is our oyster for exploring.

Little Sand Bay Nature Preserve is one of my favorite hikes on the island. It walks through three very distinct ecosystems.  You start off walking through grassy fields with small brush and berry bushes, then the ground slopes downward and you hit a giant wall of trees. The forested section of the trail is also extremely swampy and the trees are so thick that it is significantly darker, and a bit fairy tale-ish.  Finally, you hit another slight hill and the woods open up to a bright, sandy beach.

The huge changes in the ecosystems are one of my favorite things about the trail because, at least when I'm hiking alone, I feel like I can kind of let my imagination run wild.  Each change can add a new twist to whatever story I'm imagining in my head.  The open fields might be the happy beginning, the dark forest is the tumultuous middle, and the beach (whether bright and sunny or dark and stormy) is the conclusion to the story. It's kind of awesome if you have an active imagination.

The dogs always love this hike too because it's a decent length and there is plenty of wildlife to chase. It's a great opportunity to catch a glimpse of a beaver, our islands namesake.  There are some dams on the swampy part of the trail and it's not unusual to stumble on one in the water.  Eagles and other beautiful birds also frequent the trail.

Spring hiking is one of my favorites.  It's a great way to get a glimpse of the nice weather to come and shake off a bit of the winter dust.  We always do hiking year-round in our house, but the winter outings tend to be colder, shorter, and involve much less vitamin D. Spring and summer are the best time for long, meandering hikes and camping trips.  Hopefully, camping will be next on the springtime adventure list.

Your turn...Have you been enjoying a little early spring weather?
Currently listening to...This Feeling - Alabama Shakes

Eight Things That Make Alaska Great

I saw this article the other day and it really spoke to me.  The author details the various reasons why he returned to Alaska.  As my long-time readers know, this is something that comes up in conversation a lot in my household.  We almost moved back at the end of last year, but one thing led to another and we committed to another year on Beaver Island.  Nostalgically, Cody and I talk about our time spent living in our little seaside apartment in the southeastern part of Alaska.  And, when I saw this article it just sparked a new longing.  I thought I'd touch on a few of the author's points from the article and shed my own spin on some of the things that make Alaska great.

1.) The Light. The light in Alaska is truly different from anywhere else in the US because it is so extreme.  In the summer, the sun never seems to set.  Darkness is equated more with dusk, and only then for a couple of hours.  Then, winter sets in, and the few hours of sunlight seem to be frozen in between sunrise and sunset, which makes for stellar skies.

Late evening in the middle of summer.

Afternoon sunset in the middle of winter. 

2.) Tundra. When we lived in Juneau we were actually living in a temperate rain forest, but when I lived solo in the Bristol Bay region I technically lived in the far southern tundra.  I've never lived in a place with only scrubby brush and truly harsh tundra climates.  It's on my bucket list though.

Spongy forest floor in Juneau.

View of the landscape in King Salmon. 

3.) Glaciers.  Yeah, this one gets me every time.  I get that there are glaciers in the lower 48, but Juneau literally has a glacier just chilling in the middle of town.  And, that's kind of the norm for Alaska.  These huge, majestic natural formations are just part of life.  Plus, Cody and I climbed into the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves one time and it was the most incredible adventure I've experienced, thus far.

Mendenhall Glacier in the spring. 

Standing inside of Mendenhall Glacier and looking up at the sky. 

4.) Wildlife.  You're not the top of the food chain in Alaska, which can take some getting used to.  The wildlife is so different than you can imagine without living there.  My best example of Alaskan wildlife is Romeo.  Stuff like that doesn't just happen anywhere.

A little sea star that we found on the beach. 

Giant moose throwing water with his antlers. 

5.) Aurora. At one point, I subscribed to get aurora notifications sent to my phone.  Every time the notification went off I would be scurrying outside to see if I could catch a glimpse.  Unfortunately, my cellphone pictures don't do justice to the magnificent lights, and they say that the farther north you get the more intense the light. I hope to watch the lights from north of the arctic circle once in my lifetime.

Northern lights over Juneau.  Photo courtesy of this link.

6.) Wilderness.  One visit to a big city in Alaska will have you rethinking the term "city."  Even the land right outside the city borders are true, untouched wilderness.  I once hiked and camped in Katmai National Park, which is a park that covers more than 4 million acres.  You want true wilderness?  Head to Alaska, but make sure you're prepared.

Carefully planning a hike using a maps and trail guides. 

Fish Creek in North Douglas. 

7.) Mountains.  Oh, the mountains.  We've all heard the saying, "The mountains are calling and I must go." I pretty much feel like that whenever I think of Alaska.  There is nothing like spending the day climbing a mountain (without seeing another human), sitting on the top, and overlooking the world.  The views from the top make every adventure worth it.

Wilderness warnings on the mountain tops. 

Tall mountains on a distant shore. 

8.) The People.  People from Alaska are just different.  They have different sayings and unique body language.  Their culture is alive and vibrant and unwavering.  My time spent teaching for the tribe taught me more than I could ever explain about cultural diversity.  Also, some of our best friends in the world have come from Alaska.  They are just different, in their own kooky, lovable way.

Cody and the neighbors filleting halibut. 

With our best friends at a rustic cabin.

Your turn...Have you ever visited Alaska?  If so, what was your favorite part?  If not, would you ever consider it? 
Currently listening to...Going Home - The Shins

Impromptu Hike on Livingston Trail

Last week, Cody and I decided that we wanted to head to the Shore Acres Disc Golf Course in Saugatuck, Michigan.  We both totally dig disc golf as a sport (see: excuse to play around outside while potentially drinking a frosty beverage) and this course is relatively close to my parents house.  There must have been a tournament going on or something this particular weekend though because it was PACKED.  Frankly, I don't need a bunch of hardcore frolfers not-so-patiently waiting for me to play through a hole.  I'm slow and not that great at it…meh.

As we walked back to our car, we noticed a trail sign near the entrance to the disc golf course.  Naturally, we followed it and we were not disappointed.

Livingston Trail in Saugatuck Dunes State Park ended up being the perfect short hike.  We hiked about 2 miles total, no biggie.  We did end up spending a fair amount of time at the end of the trail because it opened up onto Lake Michigan.  We were the only people on the beach, which is basically unheard of in SW Michigan at this time of the year.  I suppose the hilly hike was enough to deter most of the families.

I definitely recommend this short hike, especially if you're looking for a semi-secluded beach.  I'd venture a guess that you wouldn't have to fight for a spot on this beach, even on a hot day.  The trail was hilly and ran through some steep dunes.  The trail was a good mix of wooded and beach-y scenery.  Check this out if you are ever hanging in the area!

Your turn…Have you ever been to Saugatuck Dunes State Park?
Currently listening to…Cough Syrup - Young the Giant

Quality Time

Cody is going to be leaving for Alaska sooner than I am.  We've been trying to make the most of our time together before he leaves.  This means that all of our free time is being spent trying to squeeze in a little quality time.  We've been cooking meals (breakfast, lunch, AND dinner), hiking, snowshoeing, snuggling on the couch.  All of our time is spent together these days.

It's been bittersweet.  I love spending so much time together.  I don't love that it means we will be spending the next several months apart.  I know that it is a means to an end.  Cody going to Juneau early means that we have the financial stability to move back to Alaska.  It means we will have a house secured.  It means that we will be settled.  It means things will be easier in the long run.

Until he leaves we will continue to pack in as much fun as possible together.  Enjoy the pictures while they last.  I have a feeling that Netflix binges will rule my life once he leaves…and nobody needs to see a picture of that.  Hah.

Your turn…Have you ever spent any significant time away from your spouse?

Currently listening to…Midnight City- M83

Basin Road & Mountain Trails

For the most part lately it has been sitting in the mid 50's and the skies have been overcast.  We've had some pretty good rainy days too.  Thankfully, these cool and overcast days are perfect for hiking. Some of my favorite days are the ones spent hiking on a drizzly day.

These pictures were snapped a couple of weekends ago.  Cody and I went to Basin Road, which is located in downtown Juneau.  Basin Road leads to a wide array of trail heads like Perseverance Trail, Mount Juneau, and Mount Roberts. These are all really great trails and vary in difficulty from easy to extremely difficult.  We wanted to hike Mount Roberts originally but realized that we had forgotten the dogs leash (no unleashed dogs at the top of the trail). So, we just hiked a mile or so of each trail.  Each trail is very diverse and this allowed us to see a ton of unique wildlife and scenery.  It ended up being a beautiful and relaxing day.

**Unfortunately, a hiker was lost on the Mount Roberts Trail not long after Cody and I hiked it.  It is unknown what happened to her but you can read about the story here and here.  Such a sobering reminder that nature is unpredictable, especially in the 49th state.  This incident has made me really buckle down on not hiking alone and always telling people where I am hiking.  I hope everyone makes sure to do this when they adventure outdoors!**

Cabin Camping In Alaska

Camping. I love sleeping in a tent, late night bonfires, the smoky taste of campfire food, warm coffee on a chilly morning.  I love all of it.

Beach views on the hike to the cabin. 

I've been nervous about camping in Alaska ever since we moved here.  As a midwesterner, I grew up without the threat of bears.  Bears are a very real threat in all of Alaska though and it is something I have felt fearful about since moving here. That being said, I was so happy to get the opportunity to do some rustic (no plumbing, no electricity) cabin camping a few weeks ago.  It spared me my fear of bears and still allowed me to do some camping!

Hiking about 1mile from our cabin location.

Great friends and a great weekend!

Renting a USFS cabin in Juneau costs a whopping $35/night.  These cabins go QUICK so you have to be speedy to snatch one up from the Forest Service before they sell out (think 6+ months in advance).  This has been the first time we've been able to score one of these cabins.  Sooooo worth the wait.

Breakfast and coffee on the cabin stove. 

Alaskan Gothic.  Can you spot the photobomb??

Cody, myself, and two other friends (and two crazy dogs) took a short hike to a cabin in the woods near Juneau and spent a glorious weekend hiking, camping, cooking, and exploring.  It was one of the best weekends I have spent since arriving in Juneau two years ago.

View from the hike back to the car on Sunday afternoon. 

If you ever get the chance to try out a USFS cabin in the Juneau-area I highly recommend it.  The cabins are beautiful and well-maintained. Some amazing memories were made in that cabin :)

Questions:
Do you like camping? Why or why not?
Have you ever camped in a bear-heavy area?
Where is your favorite camping location? 

Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Sometimes you get to experience something so spectacular that you know it will happen only once in your lifetime.  I experienced something like this while on a hike this week.  I took off hiking across a lake in Juneau and ended up inside of Mendenhall Glacier.

Standing on Mendenhall Lake.  Look closely and you'll notice that we are wearing ice cleats! 

Mendenhall Lake, which the glacier sits on, is completely frozen right now.  This makes getting to the caverns underneath Mendenhall Glacier not only possible, but downright easy! The Glacier is accessible to hike to/in all year by hiking West Glacier Trail.  However, this trail isn't for the faint of heart, especially if you are not the most skilled hiker. The trail includes some steep climbs, slippery rocks, and it requires that you go off-trail to get to the ice caves.  It can also be quite dangerous to go inside the caves under the glacier due to the constantly melting ice.  Enter at your own risk!

View from West Glacier Trail,  August 2013. 

With Mendenhall Lake frozen though, the glacier is accessible by hiking a mile across the lake, up the base of some rather large hills/cliffs, and sliding on your bum (literally) down a slippery slope to the opening of the ice caves. It was a wonderful hike and the views the entire way were spectacular.  Nothing can compare to the feeling of standing INSIDE of a glacier though.

Cliffs near the glacier.

Touching a glacier for the first time!

Inside Mendenhall Glacier, frozen ice columns. 

Inside the largest cavern in Mendenhall Glacier. 

Look up! Massive hole inside of the ice caves that looked skyward. 

The glacier was completely amazing.  Everything emitted a soft, blue glow.  The ice was the smoothest thing that I have ever touched.  It appeared bumpy, but the bumps were actually many inches underneath the actual top layer of ice.  The top layer of ice was so clear that it was almost invisible.  It was cold inside of the caves, but warm enough that I was comfortable without my gloves and hat on.  This was, without a doubt, a once in a lifetime experience because of the melting ice.  I am so thankful that I got to experience this incredible, natural wonder.

Questions:
What is the top item on your bucket list?
What is something that you've done that is "once in a lifetime?"